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Master cylinder seals replaced, rear caliper seals replaced. Old banjo bolt had snapped off in the rear caliper the past so someone had taken a new banjo bolt and sawn it off short and used that I removed the caliper and drilled out the remains of the old banjo bolt. This is easy to do as a banjo bolt has a convenient accurate hole down the middle already. Makes me wonder sometimesNow I need to replace the rear hydraulic line. The original incorporates the brake light switch so specifying this line needs a bit of thought.Bookmark the. Took off the front forks to replace the oil seals. These are Showa forks very similar to those fitted to many Japanese bikes.

They have a socket head (allen) screw in the bottom which often seizes in place. Mine was no different. One came out OK but the other had already been rounded off in the past. I had to drill that out and replace it with a SS one.Fork seals replaced and fresh fork oil in.Front disk is from a different model and did not have the little slot cut in it in the central hole to allow the speedometer drive to operate. 10 minutes with a file sorted that out.Front end back on, no leaks.Undid the front and rear brake calipers which were dragging. Removed the crusty old chain.

Pumped up tyres (less than 10psi front and rear!) so the bike is now quite easy to wheel around.Bookmark the. The bike is now in the workshop and I have been able to check it over.It is all there with a couple of issues. The front disk needs a small slot cutting in it to allow the speedo drive to operate.The rear wheel seems to be missing a spacer, it has been bodged with an old bearing.The engine and chassis numbers match and confirm it is a 1985 model:The original electronic ignition has been ditched in the past and replaced with points.

A common mod apparently, it was thought the original EI advance curve was not so good. I don’t mind points so will stick with them for now.Bookmark the.