If a frame like that also has a rear shock in the middle of the frame triangle?The battery mount options are very limited. Matt wanted to build up a Norco Aline, and he decided that the best compromise was to mount a battery box just in front of the handlebars. The battery box mounting holes, where it attaches to the vehicle, measure 12-11/16' center to center going side to side. Vertically, the top hole to bottom hole center to center is 5', with mount holes in between at 1' center to center intervals. Zinc Plated; Holds 10-3/4' x 7' Battery; 12 gauge frame and 14 gauge base plate.

Quality Battery ContainersTaylor Aluminum Battery Boxes are ideal for street rods, customs, and race applications where space is limited. These quality battery boxes are made from.0400 in. Aluminum and the top lids have an embossed Taylor logo. Taylor offers three box types to compensate for the size and brand of battery application. All boxes include battery hold-downs and mounting hardware to complete your installation.100 Series Battery Boxes. Dimensions: 13.500 in.

L x 9.500 in. W x 10 in.H. Meets NHRA Rule 8:1. NHRA requires use without a firewall between driver's compartment and battery. Fits most sizes of battery.

3-piece box design allows access without taking the battery out of the box. Includes 3/8 in.

Bolts to mount the battery to the frame. Includes a heavy-duty 1-piece welded battery hold-down and mounting hardware200 Series Battery Boxes. Dimensions: 11.250 in.

L x 9.500 in. W x 8.750 in. H. Meets NHRA Rule 8:1. Fits Odyssey PC1500 Series, Optima Redtop and Yellowtop, and most Group 34/78 and 75/25 batteries. Includes chrome acorn nuts for mounting the lid. 3-piece box design allows access without taking the battery out of the box.

Includes 3/8 in. Bolts to mount the battery to the frame. Includes a heavy-duty 1-piece welded battery hold-down and spacers300 Series Battery Boxes.

Dimensions: 9.500 in. L x 8.250 in. W x 7.750 in. H.

NHRA Rule 8:1 not applicable. Fits Odyssey PC925 and PC1200 Series batteries. Includes chrome acorn nuts for mounting the lid.

3-piece box design allows access without taking the battery out of the box. Includes 5/16 in.

Bolts to frame-mount the battery and 2-piece molded adjustable battery hold-down.

One of the first problems a new E-biker who wants to add a kit to their bicycle has to figure out is Where do I mount the battery, and how? This article will help you see what the common methods are, and hopefully to help you decide what would work best for you.Remember the ebike battery is the most expensive component in almost every ebike and also the most fragile. Which ever method you choose for mounting your battery, remember to use great care. Treat your battery like a carton of fresh eggsand mount it with plenty of support and padding so that your cells do not become physically damaged. Ruining a few cells can ruin an entire pack. Never charge a damaged battery pack.Rear Cargo RackMounting the battery on a rear cargo rack is a frequently used method on the most affordable kits.

We don’t like them because they make the bike handle odd at the higher speeds, and if you use a common rear hubmost of the E-bikes weight is then located in the back. That makes the E-bike very awkward to lift and move around.If you are using a large and very heavy Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) pack, the rear rack is often the only place that will fit, butthat is also the absolute worst place to put a large and heavy pack; high up and at the very rear.

Positioning a heavy hub and the battery both on the back is the “easy way”, but it handles poorly.If this is for a kit, the cargo rack is usually the type that bolts onto your bike frame. These bolt-on cargo racks are usually too weak for the job they are given, and the bolts often work their way loose and squeak.

Some factory turn-key E-bikes have a heavy-duty welded-on rack for a battery. For those, we still don’t like where the weight is located, but at least they are strong and don’t come loose.Triangle MountThe absolute best place to locate the weight of a battery is as close to the center of the frame as you can, and as low as possible. One of the most frequent methods we’ve seen over the last two years to do this has been to use a triangle bag.

If you have a hard-tail frame, you probably have a large triangle space, and that means you have a variety of affordable options when it comes to a triangle bag.Here is where we recommend to buy affordable quality triangle bags made here in the USA:Water Bottle Mount CylinderWhen you Google “water bottle battery”, this is the type that comes up. It is a cylinder that holds 42 of the popular 18650-format cells. This limits either the voltage or the range, but it easily attaches to a frame adaptation rail that is bolted to the common 2-bolt water bottle attachment points. The range is dependent on the particular cell that is chosen. The bottle battery size that is common and fits inside a bicycles frame triangle uses three stacked modules that hold 14 cells each. There is also a four-stack size with 56 cells, but it is very long and will not fit inside a frame triangle.If you choose the 48V version of this pack, the number of Amp-hours (AH) can vary from 8-Ah up to 11-Ah.

However, if you choose the 36V configuration (with the number of cells being fixed), having fewer cells that are configured in series means that more of them can be configured in the parallel groups. A 36V pack (as opposed to the same size pack at 48V) can have as much as 15-Ah, if a high-Ah per cell model is used.

This is the “water bottle” style of battery pack, on a Fat E-Monster from Lectric CyclesDolphin CaseThis aluminum hard case also mounts to the water-bottle attachment points that are now common on bicycle frames. In fact, in this picture you can see the second set of “2-bolt” water bottle attachment points on the seat-tube. Since the desirable 18650-format cells (cylindrical, 18mm diameter, 65mm long) can easily fit sideways between a riders legs without interfering with pedaling, this case is becoming VERY common.

Dragon ball battle of the gods movie torrent. A saddle-bag style, that drapes over the bikes top tube.Builders who like these, often have frames with the rear shock absorber located inside the bicycles frame triangle. They also often have a small triangle space, which doesn’t leave many options for battery placement.Front Cargo RackThe pic below may look a little front-heavy, but many builders have recently tried this, and its not bad when you are using a large and heavy rear hub, like the, the, or QS. With the overall weight of this E-bike polarised (half in the front, half in the back) it handles fairly well. Not as good as having a central battery and a mid-drive on an off-roader, but it actually isn’t bad especially for a street bike.

A heavy duty and water-proof Pelican case, attached by accessory clamps to the stanchions of a dual crown fork.The bike is a 2005 Giant DH Comp from endless-sphere.com forum member “Ohbse” in Aukland, New Zealand. The fork is the well-regarded Marzocchi 888 CR. The box is a Pelican brand, and he found the mounting clamps by searching Ebay for “Accessory Clamp 1.375-inch ID”. The clamps can be found for roughly $15 each. If you can’t find a clamp that is the exact ID of your stanchions, get ones that are larger and just shim them to fit with curved copper sheets made from copper tubing from a plumbing supply. ( June 29, 2015 )You mention issues with rear-mounted packs “at higher speeds”. What do you consider those to be?

30?Also, you mentioned the scenario of the hub and pack in the back. How does it differ if hub is in the front, and pack in the back? Does that equalize it enough?I love the idea of the backpack, but worry about strapping a bomb to my back and heading out for the day. I already have a pack in which I keep things like my lights so I can swap between bikes easily, so that would be a simple upgrade. Plus, one battery for all my bikes.

🙂 Others in the thread have mentioned explosions, and I realize those were probably older, cheaper batteries in there (LiPos, I understand aren’t as explosive), but it’s still a worry. ( August 1, 2015 )Jeff your rambling on about something you have no idea about, The reason your bike caught fire is because you have no idea on how to build a safe ebike by the sounds of it,I pull 60amps from my 5p of 18650 cells constantly and have over 10,000miles on the same pack with no problem at all. Stop telling ppl lies about your problems just because you have no idea.Any cells will burn if you dont know what your doing being pouch cells, 18650 or 26650. It all comes down to management and purchasing safe quality cells and going of your bike you would have gone as cheap as possible. ( February 9, 2016 )I built myself an off road Electric Endurobike using this DS frame from China, about 7 or 8 months ago.

I have a humongous and heavy (19 kilo) 24s1p 30ah Lifepo4 A123 prismatic pouch cell battery rated @76v Nominal with a 60a-120a BMS and mated to an 18fet lyen edition controller running @55a constant 135a peak. It’s powering my 16.4 wound, Leafmotor 1500w nom (tbh it’s really more like a 2.5kw nom, and) My CA v3 confirms the 3500+w, or so on acceleration bursts and this Direct drive motor is really powerful and lifts you in the saddle when you start. ( October 14, 2015 )A very important issue. Kudos.Some pragmatic non technical fundamentals as it seems to me:Go standard. A classic mountain bike frame. Its hard enough as it is.Mainly, my point is, slung from the crossbar is nearest to ideal, so assemble from pouches that best fit this model in one simple pack (the crossbar bag in the story seemed to be two separate packs which makes it a custom battery arrangement.).We mortals should avoid combo battery packs and balance charging etc. Thats where safety problems arise it seems.Why is anyone even talking 18650s when lifepo4 pouch seems such a no brainer now?There is no real reason any one format of pouch should be much cheaper due to volume than another.

Only needs a different capacity or shape bag to offer options.I fancy the pouches which seem to be 15 ah, and are a long rectangle that should hang well from the crossbar. Pouches all seem 1cm thick so a 36v stack of 12 between your knees should be fine. NB a 20ah pouch is 1cm (1/3″) thick x us a4 paper size & weighs.5kg. So you can work on 20ah 36v being 6kg e.g.Failing that, my second choice would be ON the crossbar. Much roomier, central & still lower than a bakrak. 6 kg there would scare me even on a mid-drive.OR3/ certainly for a front hub motor, why not controller & battery on a side front pannier rack just next to the hub.

Off balance, but very low/ easy wiring. ( January 11, 2016 )I have long agonised over how to upgrde my crap bottle battery.Sadly, i didnt keep a snap to illustrate, but verballypicture a MTB w/ no rear rack or fenders.Between the seat and the wheel is a spot for a lifepo4 brick if you think on it – resting on and strapped the rear fork struts where they join the seat post. I will run with a 15ah lifepo4 pouch setup – 6kg.Its quite low and forward/central, a lot more so than a rack prism battery.Its a big flaw in a great bike. The frame is great, but has little space in the triangle for a big battery. ( January 10, 2019 )Bought e bike conversion36v10ah 500 watt with 3 SLA 12v10ah batteries (super heavy). Finally decided against my better judgement to get 36v10 li-ion e bike battery- it came in half assed dahed shipping box with no padding.

Major hassle to return what I think was a damaged thus dangerous battery. Decided to use the heavy SLA batteries, bike is mtb folder so mounting will be major problem. Just noticed spoke on new front wheel mount motor is slightly bent, wonder what tourqe from motor will do to the spoke. All in all, I am ready to trash the idea of e bike, as being more trouble and expence than it is worth.